Women's Cashmere: Grades, Micronage, and Authenticity

The micron (µ) measures the diameter of the fiber. The finer the fiber, the softer it is. Human skin perceives irritation beyond 30 µ: that's why some wools "itch." Grade A cashmere is less than 14.5 µ: always soft, never irritating. Grade B: 14.5 to 16 µ, slightly less soft but more durable. Grade C: beyond 16 µ, often mixed. Authentic pashmina (Kashmir region, India) is 12-14 µ: the finest available commercially, almost as fine as silk. A simple test: rub the fabric against the inside of the wrist (thin skin). If it slightly itches, the micronage exceeds 20 µ.

In Europe, Regulation (EU) 1007/2011 on textile fiber names allows the designation "cashmere" for any blend containing cashmere, without a mandatory minimum percentage if the percentage is clearly indicated. A sweater "30% cashmere 70% merino wool" is legal and can be of quality, but the feel will be that of the dominant merino wool. For a 100% cashmere feel: look for "100% cashmere" on the label, not just "cashmere" without a percentage. Fine merino wool (17-19 µ) can be mistaken for low-grade cashmere by touch: only micronage distinguishes the two.

Cashmere sweater: the central piece, worn alone or layered. A 100% cashmere grade A sweater at nm 2/48 weighs 150-180 g: significantly lighter than a wool sweater of the same size. Cashmere cardigan: open front, worn over a shirt or top: the most versatile version for the office. Cashmere scarf or stole (150-200 g/m²): the form where the quality/price ratio is most accessible: a scarf uses less fiber than a sweater and can be grade A for a lower budget. Cashmere vest: sleeveless, for indoor layering: less fiber = more accessible price, same quality.

Cashmere fiber is hollow: it traps air in its tubular structure, which is the most effective thermal insulator. A 100% grade A cashmere sweater at 180 g/m² warms as much as a merino wool sweater at 280-300 g/m². This warmth-to-weight ratio is the physical property that truly distinguishes cashmere from other fibers. In practice: under a coat or jacket, cashmere adds warmth without visible bulk to the shoulders. On a travel day where luggage weight matters, a cashmere sweater replaces two wool sweaters in terms of warmth.

Washing frequency: 1 wash for every 5-8 wears (cashmere naturally resists bacteria). Method: hand wash only, cold water at 25°C maximum, wool detergent without enzymes, without rubbing or wringing. Drying: flat on a towel, never hung (stretches), never tumble dry (irreversible felting). Winter storage: wash before storing (invisible sweat stains become permanent yellow in storage), cotton bag, lavender or cedar against moths, never plastic bag. Pilling: normal in the first weeks: use a depilling stone after 3-4 wears. A properly maintained grade A cashmere lasts 10-15 years.

For a cashmere sweater worn often daily: cashmere sweaters: grade B recommended for durability. For a cashmere scarf or stole: scarves and stoles: grade A accessible thanks to the reduced format. For an office cashmere cardigan: sweaters and cardigans. To compose a complete winter outfit around cashmere: women's winter outfit. To understand the differences in fibers (cashmere vs wool vs mohair vs silk): material index.